Chronicles of Scarves

Introduction

To Some it may be a ‘symbol of power’ or the ‘echo of an interesting woman’; designing it with slogans or customizing it with gifts of valued customer – it had adored the ancient Egyptian queen Nefertiti to the IMF chief Christine Lagarde. Its versatile appeal has satisfied the need of a man in Roman Army and still serves as headscarves to maintain an elegant lady’s modesty. Scarves have an interesting history ranging from politics to entertainment, protest to fashion. But for us it is an absolute Present rooted on the streets of Kolkata gliding through the faces of old and new soaring high with the wings of freedom.

Here we invite you to flip through the pages of history where this small piece of cloth took the centre stage.

Chronicles of Scarves -

1350 BC - Nefertiti's Scarf proclaimed grandeur and social status. This Egyptian queen is probably the pioneering trendsetter of scarves and made a statement. She wrapped a silk scarf around her grand flat-topped headdress, intensifying her presence.

9th century BC - Statue of Ashurnarispal

The statue of Ashurnarispal II kept at British museum shows the Assyrian king's torso is covered with a shawl above his tunic.

8th Century BC –

Suderium or Focale.

Ancient Roman military men wore a woollen or linen scarf, called Focale, around their neck to avoid chaffing. This is also called Suderium means a sweat cloth in Latin. During hot weather this piece of cloth was used to wipe perspiration.

Within Catholic Church, Suderium was also known as Maniple, as liturgical vestment - though this ornamental kerchief was rarely used for its original purpose.

230 BC -

To show the rank in military, Chinese Emperor, Cheng assigned a silk scarf to the officers and a cotton scarf for ordinary soldiers to be knotted around their neck.

50 BC to 60 AD –

Toga and the scarf.

Caesar’s senators added a silk scarf to their voluminous official robe Toga. Initially this national costume was simple and formal, slowly accessorising it to show off the wealth probably, made it a cumbersome attire.

12th Century –

Trendsetter Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Scarfs of the queen Eleanor of Aquitaine, in the Middle Ages were setting trends. Her enormous headdress pinned a fine linen scarf on top that flowed down. This was a fashion statement proclaiming her wealthy status. Whereas, the poor women of the society tied a cotton scarf around their head.

17th Century –

Cravat

The Cravats, primarily a male scarf of military origin, wrapped loosely around neck, were the precursor of the modern neck-tie and a convenient replacement of its stiff ancestor the ruff. Legendarily, during the battle of Steinkirk, in 1692 the French adopted easier style of wearing the Cravats. Instead of tying the complicated knot of the Cravats, due to hurry, they pushed the twisted endings through the buttonhole of their waistcoat. This style is known as the Steinkirk Cravats. It had been later popularised by artists and architect who wanted to introduce a more creative accessories to their often-formal clothing.

Mantilla is a traditional scarf, made of lace or silk worn by Spanish woman, over the head and on shoulders, sometimes with a comb called peineta. Some Eastern Orthodox women in Russia wear the mantilla without the peneita. during 16th century the spanish women in the warmer region started to wear veil made of lace.

18th Century –

Emperor Pavel's death by a scarf

Emperor Pavel the 1st in Russia had an aversion for silk scarves and ruled out wearing them in the army. He was conspired to death being strangled by a scarf in 1801 - strange!

19th Century –

Hermès & Burberry

Hermès designer silk scarves are the epitome of elegance and aristocracy came into the picture in 1937, though it was founded exactly a hundred years back.

Burberry the maker of personalised silk plaid scarves was founded in 1856

20th Century –

Fur scarves of France was a craze.

Authentic designer fur scarves have become a craze since its inception in 19th century

21st Century –

Ursha Creations was launched.